Did someone mention Cancun? In my opinion, that city is an overcrowded, overvisited money-hungry hotspot with sometime sargassum-lined beaches.
Come with me to a place not far from the craziness of Cancun. On Mexico’s Yucatán Gulf coast. Far less crowded, not expensive, with miles of sandy beaches, a clean sea of green, and a sky so blue that the contrast with the shimmering water can hurt your eyes…
We winter in Valladolid, Yucatán. With our neighbours/friends: Carmen, Carlos, and Abuelo Antonio, we drove 3 hours, past small and large pueblos, each with its distinctive cathedral, to the Gulf of Mexico coast….
…To a soon-to-be-overly-populated-but-still-not-yet-exploited beach fishing town called El Cuyo. Population: about 1800. Literally translated it means “The One Whose….” Chosen? About to be discovered? Primarily Mexican visitors now but the Norte Americanos are coming…
Come with me to a place not far from the craziness of Cancun. On Mexico’s Yucatán Gulf coast. Far less crowded, not expensive, with miles of sandy beaches, a clean sea of green, and a sky so blue that the contrast with the shimmering water can hurt your eyes…
We winter in Valladolid, Yucatán. With our neighbours/friends: Carmen, Carlos, and Abuelo Antonio, we drove 3 hours, past small and large pueblos, each with its distinctive cathedral, to the Gulf of Mexico coast….
…To a soon-to-be-overly-populated-but-still-not-yet-exploited beach fishing town called El Cuyo. Population: about 1800. Literally translated it means “The One Whose….” Chosen? About to be discovered? Primarily Mexican visitors now but the Norte Americanos are coming…
El Cuyo
We arrive in the afternoon. The mighty wind from the Gulf whips onshore. Barefoot, we stroll along the beach, sit on the sand, ponder the sky above and the earth below. Waves crash, pelicans and cormorants dive into the sea, miraculously emerging with fish in their bills, which they gulp down while in full flight. The short cement pier stretches into the water like a pointer finger beckoning us closer to the sea action.
Iguanas hang lazily over stone walls. Coastal birds circle gracefully in the sky.
We arrive in the afternoon. The mighty wind from the Gulf whips onshore. Barefoot, we stroll along the beach, sit on the sand, ponder the sky above and the earth below. Waves crash, pelicans and cormorants dive into the sea, miraculously emerging with fish in their bills, which they gulp down while in full flight. The short cement pier stretches into the water like a pointer finger beckoning us closer to the sea action.
Iguanas hang lazily over stone walls. Coastal birds circle gracefully in the sky.
As darkness descends, the lights go out all over the town…
...and we are left in blackness. There is no electricity. Slight panic.
Then...did we bring a flashlight? Frantic scrambling in the dark. Yes!!
Still, we trip and fall and bash our knees and legs while groping around in this new reality. The little beach/fishing town is expanding so quickly, its infrastructure cannot support the growth. As if in league with the earth, no stars shine tonight. No moon. An occasional motorcyclist with his searing mono-light roars through the blackness.
Carlos fumbles to the car. Opens the door. Ah, we have light. Quickly, we pile into the Suzuki. Headlights shine on a ghostly road of sand as we bump and grind our way to the centre of town. Where, yes, there is some emergency power!
And more! There is a small open restaurant selling Yucatecan food, like panuchos and salbutes. Quickly we stake out an outside table. We know this little eatery will soon be overwhelmed with hordes of hungry turistas.
Eventually, though, street lights flicker and then return to a chorus of relieved cheers from those around us.
The morning after…
The sky has cleared. The morning sea wind is not as wild. The empty white beach stretches for miles in both directions. Bands of sandpipers scamper in and out of the surf looking for sea delicacies to devour.
We walk and we marvel at the sky above and the sand below….
Especially when we hear about the wild winter storms at home.
...and we are left in blackness. There is no electricity. Slight panic.
Then...did we bring a flashlight? Frantic scrambling in the dark. Yes!!
Still, we trip and fall and bash our knees and legs while groping around in this new reality. The little beach/fishing town is expanding so quickly, its infrastructure cannot support the growth. As if in league with the earth, no stars shine tonight. No moon. An occasional motorcyclist with his searing mono-light roars through the blackness.
Carlos fumbles to the car. Opens the door. Ah, we have light. Quickly, we pile into the Suzuki. Headlights shine on a ghostly road of sand as we bump and grind our way to the centre of town. Where, yes, there is some emergency power!
And more! There is a small open restaurant selling Yucatecan food, like panuchos and salbutes. Quickly we stake out an outside table. We know this little eatery will soon be overwhelmed with hordes of hungry turistas.
Eventually, though, street lights flicker and then return to a chorus of relieved cheers from those around us.
The morning after…
The sky has cleared. The morning sea wind is not as wild. The empty white beach stretches for miles in both directions. Bands of sandpipers scamper in and out of the surf looking for sea delicacies to devour.
We walk and we marvel at the sky above and the sand below….
Especially when we hear about the wild winter storms at home.
***
Panuchos are a Yucatecan food specialty made with a refried tortilla topped with refried black beans, chopped cabbage, pulled chicken or turkey, tomato, pickled red onion, avocado, and pickled jalapeño pepper.
Salbutes are puffed deep fried tortillas topped with lettuce, sliced avocado, pulled chicken or turkey, tomato and pickled red onion. They originate from the Yucatán Peninsula.
Panuchos are a Yucatecan food specialty made with a refried tortilla topped with refried black beans, chopped cabbage, pulled chicken or turkey, tomato, pickled red onion, avocado, and pickled jalapeño pepper.
Salbutes are puffed deep fried tortillas topped with lettuce, sliced avocado, pulled chicken or turkey, tomato and pickled red onion. They originate from the Yucatán Peninsula.
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